Frequently Asked Questions

A hose truck sprays seed and fertilizer, bound up in wood fiber mulch and tackifier, across prepared soil in a single wet pass. It works on blackland clay when the surface is loosened and graded first; the mulch keeps the seed damp and holds it in place on ground that would otherwise crust or wash.

Published national guides range from about $0.07 up to $0.35 a square foot for residential hydroseeding, with the spread coming from which guide you read, and HomeGuide prices a lawn near 5,000 square feet at $1,000 to $1,750. Prep work, slopes, topsoil and access change the total, so we measure first and give you a written quote.

For a new Bermuda lawn, usually yes. Bermuda goes dormant in winter and the average first frost in Dallas is around mid-November, so October seed rarely has time to establish. October is a good month for erosion cover on bare ground, and we can plan the permanent lawn for late spring.

Sod gives you a finished surface right away and costs the most. Hydroseed costs far less per square foot and suits large, sloped or odd-shaped yards, but it needs several weeks of watering and patience before it is ready to use.

For sunny lawns, mostly Bermuda, a warm-season grass that handles heat and drought well. Heavy shade under mature trees is a weak spot for Bermuda, so we discuss shade areas on the visit before choosing a mix.

Under good conditions you should see sprouts in about 5 to 14 days. HomeGuide puts the first mowing at four to six weeks, and Angi says about six weeks, once the grass is around four inches tall.

Dallas clay shrinks as it dries and opens deep cracks, a trait of the blackland vertisol soils. Established turf usually rides it out, but cracks can tear young grass, which is one reason we push to seed early enough for roots to get deep before August.

The TCEQ Construction General Permit kicks in when a project disturbs an acre or more, and it also reaches smaller pieces of a bigger development that crosses that line; in either case a stormwater pollution prevention plan is required before construction. Final seeding is usually part of how the site is stabilized under that plan.

National guides range from about $0.07 up to $0.35 a square foot, and HomeGuide's figure for a lawn of around 5,000 square feet is $1,000 to $1,750. Prep, topsoil and slopes change the total, and most companies have a minimum fee.

Not well. Builder grade is usually packed and full of debris, so we loosen and fine grade it first, and add topsoil where the surface is thin.

Keep traffic off until after the first mowing, around four to six weeks. Heavy use before the roots set tears up young Bermuda.

Washouts usually happen where water concentrates. We look at the damage and reseed those spots, and we can add blankets on any channel that keeps washing.

It helps a lot in Dallas summers. Without irrigation, plan on hose-end sprinklers and a timer to keep the surface damp for the first few weeks.

Yes. We seed lots, common areas and easements for builders and can schedule lot by lot as homes reach final grade.

Usually per acre or per thousand square feet, with prep, topsoil, blankets and water access listed separately. Cost guides put per-acre hydroseeding around $2,000 to $4,900, but slopes and prep can move it well beyond that.

We can put down hydromulch and temporary cover to hold the soil, then come back for permanent warm-season seeding in spring.

Yes. We put in silt fence and inlet protection and lay erosion control blankets too, so one crew can handle the erosion items and the seeding.

On a gentle slope with no concentrated flow, often yes. Steeper or longer slopes, or anywhere water channels, usually need bonded fiber matrix or erosion control blankets.

They are mats of straw held in netting, laid over seed and stapled down. We use them on moderate slopes and short channels where hydromulch would wash.

Ours do. The cover is temporary; the grass underneath is what holds the slope long term.

Usually, once we find where the water is coming from. Many repeat washouts start at a downspout, a fence line or a neighbor's grade, so the fix may include redirecting water before re-covering.

Mostly home builders, site developers and general contractors with a stormwater plan, plus homeowners doing large additions or pools near a creek or street.

Under the TCEQ permit, a project under one acre that is not part of a larger development does not need permit coverage. Cities can still have their own rules, so check with your building inspector, and sediment control is smart near a street drain either way.

Usually it was laid on top of the ground instead of trenched in, or run downhill so water followed it. Built-up sediment that never gets cleaned out is the other common cause.

When the areas it protects are stabilized, usually with established grass, and the site operator agrees it can be removed. We pull it and seed the strip so it does not leave bare ground.

It depends on what is there. A yard with decent surface soil may need only touch-ups, while builder subsoil or shallow chalk may need several inches. We dig test spots on the visit to decide.

Often, by regrading so the soil slopes away from the slab and toward a swale or drain. If water comes from a downspout or a neighbor's yard, we may add a drain line.

They overlap. Yard grading usually means shaping a residential lot for drainage and lawn; land grading covers larger areas and pads. We do both on the scale a seeding job needs.

Yes, if grading leaves surplus soil or debris, we can haul it. That is listed as its own line on the quote.

It is risky. Bermuda goes dormant in winter and the average first frost is around mid-November, so new seed has little time to establish. Late spring into summer is more reliable.

Probably not. Bermuda goes dormant and turns light brown in cold weather. Wait for spring green-up before deciding what needs reseeding.

If most of the yard is still good grass, repair and overseed. Once roughly half or more has gone to weeds or bare dirt, a full renovation is usually the better use of money.

Dense shade suppresses Bermuda. Thinning the canopy can help, and in deep shade a bed or a different ground cover may work better than fighting it.

We did not find a current published price for repair as a whole. Cost guides put overseeding at about $0.07 to $0.23 a square foot, and we quote repair once we see the damage.